REVIEW OF LA PANGA ANTIGUA RESTAURANT, SAN JOSE DEL CABO CONTEMPORARY MEXICAN CUISINE WITH A DEFINITIVE PASSION FOR SEAFOOD
Wander the streets of the historic colonial town of San Jose del Cabo and you'll find yourself immersed in Mexican culture ranging from a plethora of art galleries showcasing local and regional works of Mexican artists to a centuries old mission. But what may surprise you is the startling number of restaurants you'll find. While that's a good thing, it also creates a conundrum. Which are worth a visit? Take it from me, La Panga Antigua should be on the top of your list.
Located directly across the street from the historic mission, La Panga Antigua is tucked away behind a single door over which a modest sign hangs. It might not look like much from the outside, but step through the door and you'll discover a charming world of culinary magic. At the front, a small reception area leads to a well-stocked bar. Just beyond the bar you'll find a terrace area with a few well placed tables. Continue down the stairs and you'll find two courtyard areas where al fresco dining is elevated to 5-star status.
Seating options at La Panga include open-air dining in their courtyard and terrace levels or for more privacy, reserve their air-conditioned wine cellar.... perfect for groups and private events.
If you've read my reviews before, you know how important atmosphere is in contributing to my overall opinion of the dining experience. Even the best food suffers when the surroundings aren't up to snuff. Here at La Panga Antigua, ambience is the first course in what no doubt will be one of those meals you remember for years to come. Lush landscaping, intricate stonework, linen table cloths and candlelight.... intimate nooks where a table for two comes with a heavy dose of romantic possibilities. Atmosphere? You bet. Unless you're a fisherman, you might not be familiar with the word "panga", let alone know what La Panga Antigua means in your native language. A "panga" is actually a small, open-bow fishing boat that's been used throughout Mexico, central and south America for centuries. La Panga Antigua could then be best translated as "the old fishing boat"... and in this case, an old fishing boat that harvests nothing but the best of flavors, textures and aromas from the sea. While the menu at La Panga Antigua offers prime beef and chicken, it's clear their passion lies with seafood and what can be done by melding traditional Mexican techniques with contemporary culinary concepts. The result.... what myself and writers from Vanity Fair, Food Arts and Baja Traveler magazines consider to be a must-visit whenever in Los Cabos.
The dinner menu starts with a smattering of appetizers including a Chilled Seafood Medley drizzled with fresh basil oil, Octopus & Mushrooms "Ajillo" – tasty morsels of the two in a flavorful garlic and guajillo pepper sauce, and one of my favorites, their Tuna & Avocado Timbale served with jalapeño-soy sauce. For a second course I sampled the Shrimp Pozole which is everything a pozole should be – slow cooking at it's finest rendering flavors that are deep, yet subtle enough so as not to overpower the fresh Baja shrimp. ABOVE LEFT: An assortment of appetizers from La Panga Antigua's menu including Chilled Organic Gazpacho, Tuna & Avocado Tambale, Chilled Seafood Medley and organic salads. ABOVE RIGHT:Seared Ahi Tuna glazed with an aromatic mixture of honey, rosemary and guajillo peppers served with asparagus spears.
Main courses include a couple of prime beef dishes – a Filet Mignon & Shrimp duo or a 12 Ounce Rib Eye plus a nicely prepared Chicken Mole served with rice and fried plantains. But I was here for the seafood and I was not disappointed. To date, I've tried their Huachinago, or whole red snapper and their Seared Ahi Tuna. If you've spent any time in Mexico, you'll know that a freshly prepared whole snapper – flesh scored randomly from tip to tail to allow the spices to penetrate deep into the meat then fried to perfection – is about as traditional a Mexican preparation as there is. Top it with a roasted tomatillo salsa and you've got a new slant on an old classic.
VIDEO TOUR OF LA PANGA ANTIGUA RESTAURANT, SAN JOSE DEL CABO
Take a quick video tour of the interior of La Panga Antigua and you'll see why it's become a top table in San Jose del Cabo. But as nice as it looks here, nothing compares to being there!
On the other hand,the Seared Ahi Tuna is not what you'd call traditional Mexican. Say "seared ahi" to any foodie and they'll conjure up visions of Japanese cooking and sushi bars. It's decidedly Asian, yet, what La Panga Antigua's kitchen does with it plants it firmly into contemporary Mexican cooking, albeit fused with Asian-Pacific sensibilities. How so? By way of a glimmering glaze that paints a generous medallion of ocean-fresh yellowfin tuna in a bath of translucent, taste bud tempting goodness. Perfumed by rosemary, sweetened by honey, made distinctly Mexican by the inclusion of the guajillo's smoky, mild heat... it's tantalizing to look at but most appreciated on the business end of a fork.
WHAT'S DINNER WITHOUT WINE?
Fernande Garvin, author of The Art of French Cooking, once said that "Wine makes a symphony of a good meal", and I couldn't agree more. What it does for a great meal is burn it into memory. Luckily, La Panga Antigua has a diverse wine list with a global range including offerings from France, Italy, Spain, New Zealand, Australia, Chile and Argentina mixed in with a bevy of choices from California. I'm also happy to report that Mexico is well represented with a selection of fine vintages from the famed Valle Guadalupe and Valle de Ojos Negros regions in northern Baja.
The difficulty lies in the pairing, but fortunately the staff is well versed in doing so, don't hesitate to ask for a recommendation. I took the advice of my waiter and opted for a Cabernet blend from L. A. Cetto – one of the oldest Baja wineries and currently Mexico's largest wine producer. It complemented the seared Ahi very nicely at a price that was very reasonable.
A simple doorway across the street from the church is what you'll see outside of La Panga. What waits inside is a real treat.
Desert wasn't an option for me on this visit. It was a case of my eyes being bigger than my stomach, but I don't think that will happen on my next visit. If desert compares with what crossed my plate this time, I've found one more reason to put my oars in the water and row towards La Panga Antigua. You'd be wise to do likewise.
CONTACT INFORMATION & LOCATION
La Panga Antigua is located at #20 Zaragoza in San Jose del Cabo's historic district directly across from old mission. For more information, visit them online by CLICKING HERE.
Reservations can be easily made through their website or by calling 011-52-624-142-4041 (international dialing), or from within Los Cabos, dial 624-142-4041.
