REVIEW OF HACIENDA COCINA Y CANTINA, CABO SAN LUCAS

WHERE GREAT LOCATION DOESN'T EQUAL HIGH PRICES!
Word of a new restaurant opening in Cabo always gets my attention – as much so as it gets the attention of my wife Dolores (Dee). We both love trying new restaurants, and fortunately for us, we have plenty of opportunities as we visit Los Cabos several times each year for weeks at a time. That kind of time affords us the luxury of trying 2-3 different restaurants a day. Sadly, most we try don’t make it onto our web site. Those that do, earn it.
Our last trip down to the tip of the Baja took place from late December of 2010 well into January of the New Year. We visited many, many places, took countless photos and shot hours and hours of video footage… so much so that here it is, April and we’re just now getting caught up enough to post another restaurant review. This time, we’re reviewing Hacienda Cocina y Cantina in Cabo San Lucas.

You'll be hard-pressed to find a better location than Hacienda Cocina y Cantina for a casually elegant meal. Set upon Medano Beach, the property affords diners with spectacular views of Land's End and the boats passing in and out of Cabo marina.
Hacienda Cocina y Cantina is the signature restaurant at the recently opened Hacienda Beach Club and Residences. Hacienda Beach Club sits upon prime real estate – the former site of the Hotel Hacienda– one of the very first hotels constructed in Cabo San Lucas back in the 1970's. The property rests on the northeast corner of the Cabo San Lucas marina and spills out onto famous Medano Beach. The location alone is reason enough to visit.
Getting there is easy. It’s close proximity to most Cabo hotels will translate into a $10 cab ride for most… some less, some more depending on where you’re staying. Valet parking is available for those who prefer to drive themselves. Hotels along Medano Beach or the north end of the marina are close enough for walking.
Before I get to the food, here’s a little background on the group behind Hacienda Cocina. The impetus for this Cabo restaurant came from the Moana Hotel & Restaurant Group – a Mill Valley California based hospitality company whose mission is “crafting experiences that are sophisticated yet approachable; vibrant yet casually elegant” – something they call Modern Luxury. You may not know Moana by its corporate name, but chances are you’re familiar with some of the luxury resorts they own or manage including Auberge du Soleil in Napa and Esperanza in Los Cabos… decidedly successful, upscale hotels. But, Moana’s focus is restaurants – at least one would come to that conclusion upon learning they own or manage well over twenty restaurants including award-winning eateries in California, Oregon, Washington, Colorado, Texas and Hawaii.

The terrace area is undoubtedly a favorite amongst diners as is the palapa covered bar
where comfortable chairs and tables provide dramatic views of Cabo Bay and Land's End. |
Our visit to Hacienda Cocina y Cantina took place on a weekday night for dinner. We arrived just as the sun was going down and were treated to another beautiful Cabo sunset with the shimmering lights from a cruise ship glistening on the bay. Seating options are many with several elegantly appointed (yet definitely not stuffy) dining rooms under roof and an expansive, terraced outdoor dining area. Our waiter Tomas introduced himself, took our drink orders and handed us menus to peruse. Both of us opted for Mojitos… well made and very refreshing.
For starters we selected three… we were very hungry!! First up was Ceviche Tropical – fresh Mexican sea bass marinated in citrus juice with tomato, jicama, cucumber and pineapple. The jicama provided a distinctive crunch while the pineapple brought island flavors into play. Next was Ensalada de Elote Rotizado – an organic salad featuring roasted sweet corn, fresh tortilla strips and a wonderfully unusual vinaigrette made with guajillo chiles and vanilla! Last, Flautas de Congrejo – lightly spicy crabmeat wrapped in a crisp flour tortilla served with hibiscus sauce and a mango slaw. All three were very good, although I would have preferred more heat in the flautas to offset the sweetness of the hibiscus sauce. Not one appetizer topped the $10 mark!
For our main course, my better half chose Medalliones de Fillet con Mole de Chile Ancho Y Cachuate; me, I chose the Carnitas Para Compartir (to share). Dee’s dish was tender medallions of filet mignon served with a mole sauce whose primary ingredients were ancho chile and Japanese peanuts. Coupled with an aromatic blend of Mexican spices, the mole had a deep, intense flavor that paired very well with the succulent cuts of beef. Roasted potatoes and fresh organic spinach filled out the plate. |

Terrace dining isn't the only option at Hacienda Cocina. With several interior dining areas, choices are plentiful and the beautifully lit and decorated spaces are warm and inviting.
GENEROUS PORTIONS FULL OF FLAVOR
My order of carnitas arrived at the table wrapped in parchment paper and once Tomas the waiter freed it from its confines, the aroma was mouth-watering! Good carnitas should never need the intrusion of a knife… it should willfully come apart with just the slightest help from one’s fork. Well, Hacienda’s carnitas didn’t need the forks help… it literally fell into bite-sized chunks of pork heaven all by itself. The flavor? It tasted even better than it looked. The only problem was how was I going to finish it all as the portions here are very, very generous. I know I ordered a “for the table” item, but my guess is that three people could share the dish and still have need for a doggie bag! Along side the carnitas; organic cabbage and Jalapeno Escabeche – a classic Mexican side consisting of pickled jalapenos, white onions, carrots and garlic.
Dee and I both shared a bottle of wine with dinner. It wasn’t an easy choice as Hacienda Cocina Y Cantina has a tempting wine list that features vintages from Italy, Argentina and California as well as a nice sampling of Baja wines. We were looking for something that could compliment both dishes selecting a Nebbiolo from the La Cetto Winery in northern Baja’s Guadalupe Valley. The 2005 vintage is a private reserve and in my opinion, one of the best reds produced in Mexico. Perfect with just about any grilled meat it paired nicely with the slow-roasted carnitas as well.
Dee and I both wanted to try a dessert, yet there was no way we could eat another bite. Oh well, guess we’ll have to make a reservation for our next trip down coming later this month. Of one thing we’re pretty sure, we’ll be glad we did!
Hacienda Cocina y Cantina is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a varied and inviting menu. What astonished me most was that for the quality of food, level of service and its premium location one would expect prices to be much higher than they are. The most expensive dish on the dinner menu was $24, for lunch nothing over $17. Dinner for two with a nice glass of wine and a couple of appetizers can be had for less than $100 US. That’s pretty much unheard of in Cabo and certainly not something you’re likely to find right on the beach!

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