Photo: Bill Boyce

GET DOWN AND GET UNDER - SCUBA DIVING IN CABO SAN LUCAS, THE EAST CAPE, LA PAZ AND THE WORLD FAMOUS CABO PULMO REEF AND MARINE SANCTUARY
Scuba Diving in Los Cabos and the East Cape regions of Baja Sur offers some of the finest diving in the world. From world famous Cabo Pulmo to the Sand Falls discovered by Jacques Cousteau, southern Baja is a diver's paradise. With 800 different marine species you're sure to come away with unforgettable memories. Once you've experienced diving in Cabo, you'll be back again. We cover some of the best dives in Cabo San Lucas further down this page, but we also thought you'd like to learn a bit more about diving in Baja Sur and the areas north of Cabo San Lucas that offer divers world-class dive experiences.

DIVING NORTH OF LOS CABOS
The East Cape region of Baja Sur has literally dozens of near shore and off shore dive sites. Most popular are Punta Pescadero, Cerro Verde, Rancho Buena Vista Reef, El Cardonal and Punta Perico. Dives range from beginner level to somewhat difficult and unpredictable dives at areas like Punta de la Ventana where, when conditions are right, cave explorations can reveal grouper, jewfish and sea bass.

La Paz to the north is another great dive destination. The proximity of Isla Cerralvo and Isla Espiritu Santu provides easy access to dozens of dive sites. La Reyna (the queen), located off the north end of Isla Cerralvo, is considered a “must dive” site where an encounter with giant Pacific manta rays is a good possibility. Isla Ballena (whale island) can be found off the west coast of Isla Espiritu Santo and it’s one of the few dive sites that features caves, one of which has an air chamber that allows divers to surface while inside. For the advanced open water diver, El Bajo, or the Marisla seamount, is a set of three underwater peaks famous for its schooling hammerhead sharks. Anywhere from a half-dozen to several hundred hammerheads can be seen swimming in a clockwise circle around the peaks, and no one yet knows why.

WHAT MAY BE THE BEST DIVING IN BAJA CALIFORNIA – CABO PULMO MARINE SANCTUARY
The Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park is located about 40 miles north of San Jose del Cabo on the eastern cape of Baja. The abundant coral growth on the rocky reefs provides shelter and food for countless reef fish, many of which are found nowhere else in the world. The marine boundaries are Bahia Las Barracas to the north and Bahia Los Frailes to the south. This nutrient rich water results in a profusion of plankton that forms the base of a vast food web of invertebrates, fishes, birds and mammals making the Sea of Cortez one of the most productive waters in the world.

Cabo Pulmo is by far my favorite spot, and I’m not alone. Noted photojournalist, Bill Boyce, has been diving in Baja for decades and has seen a lot of changes including the positive effects of marine conservation and protection. Boyce first dove the waters of Cabo Pulmo about 20 years ago and has seen an amazing recovery in reef life since the Mexican government created the Cabo Pulmo Marine Sanctuary in 1995.

“When I first dove the area, life was fairly abundant. But over the course of 4 to 5 years, there was a definite drop,” says Boyce. “When the reef was declared a marine preserve and commercial fishing was banned in the area, life began to return in force. My most recent dive there was in late 2008 and the turnaround was dramatic… the place is just completely alive. We we’re lucky enough to encounter a whale shark, up close and personal.”

Mark Rayor, owner and operator of Vista Sea Sports in Los Barriles, accompanied Boyce on those dives. Rayor has been diving these waters just as long as Boyce but he has the added benefit of living and working in the area year-round.

“It was the sport fishing that first brought me to Cabo 18 years ago. It wasn't until I lived here for more than a year that I discovered that he Sea of Cortez is the best kept secret in the diving world,” Rayor says. “Unlike many other places in the world it is still unspoiled. Any place there is structure, like an outcropping of rocks, an entire ecosystem can be found with eels, rays and hordes of tropical sea life. Day in and day out I see the amazement on people’s faces when they put a dive mask on and take a look below the surface for the first time.”

Rayor’s love of the area isn’t something he’s shy about. “By far Cabo Pulmo has become my favorite dive spot in the world. When we first moved here it was hard to pick a favorite dive site because the entire Sea Of Cortez is so rich with sea life. However, since the Government declared Cabo Pulmo a National Park, which has brought vigilance and protection, it has flourished. The sea life can sense the protection. I once had a diver tell me if there were any more fish on the reef there wouldn't be room for the water.”

So why not strap on a tank and don a mask to explore the wonders of the Sea of Cortez yourself. If you’re not a diver, but want to become one, most resorts in Los Cabos have great working relationships with dive shops and resort dive courses are easily arranged.

PELICAN ROCK - SAND FALLS
Located in Cabo Bay alongside the rocky cliffs that lead the way to Land's End, this area provides dives starting at 20 foot depths. Drop down the walls where sea fans and schools of goat fish, puffers, eels, parrotfish and angels. Other common citings are lobsters, jacks, rays and the occasional white tip reef shark. Most famous for Jacques Cousteau's discovery known as the Sand Falls, this is a great choice for a quick trip that's only a 5 minute boat ride from the Cabo marina.

NEPTUNE'S FINGER
Also located in Cabo Bay, this dive brings you to rock piles and boulders covered in sea sponges, gorgonias and sea fans. The usual colorful display of tropical fish complete the picture with a good chance of a visit from a sea turtle. With the help of local protection agencies and volunteers, sea turtles are making a comeback here in Cabo.

LAND'S END (The Point)
Depths start out around 25 ft. with the opportunity to dive the canyon next to the seal lion colony. Calm conditions allow you to get up close and personal with the resident seals that call this spot home. Loads of structure and life-covered rock walls are home to tropical fish, lobsters, hawkfish and even schools of tuna. Eels are another common sighting. Currents can get a little strong and unpredictable so dives here are best suited for the intermediate to advanced diver.

NORTH WALL
This is one of the best locations for beginning divers and those taking "resort" courses but it still holds wonders that even very experienced divers will enjoy.



GORDO BANKS OPEN WATER DIVES

Experienced divers only. The Gordo Banks are located 28 miles offshore from La Playita. The top of this seamount is 110 feet deep with often strong currents. Quick boats can have you on the spot within an hour or less. Perhaps one of the biggest draws is the appearance of large gatherings of hammerhead sharks. Whale sharks cruise the area regularly as do many pelagic species like marlin and swordfish. Peak periods for diving the Gordo Banks is from the middle of August through the end of November.



DIVING ON THE EAST CAPE
The East Cape region of Baja Sur has literally dozens of near shore and off shore dive sites. Most popular are Punta Pescadero, Cerro Verde, Rancho Buena Vista Reef, El Cardonal and Punta Perico. Dives ranged from beginner level to somewhat difficult and unpredictable dives at areas like Punta de la Ventana where, when conditions are right, cave explorations can reveal high grouper, jewfish and sea bass.






CABO PULMO MARINE PARK
The Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park is located about 40 miles north of San Jose del Cabo on the eastern cape of Baja. The abundant coral growth on the rocky reefs provides shelter and food for countless colorful reef fishes, many of which are found nowhere else in the world. The marine boundaries are Bahia Las Barracas to the north and Bahia Los Frailes to the south. This nutrient rich water results in a profusion of plankton that forms the base of a vast food web of invertebrates, fishes, birds and mammals making the Sea of Cortez one of the most productive waters in the world.




ISLAND DIVES FROM LA PAZ
The islands off the coast of La Paz are another spectacular dive destination. The islanda of Espirutu Santo and Isla Cerralvo as well as the Marisla seamount bring you face to face with giant grouper, hammerhead sharks, whale sharks and a diverse collection of tropical fish and pelagic species. Reef dives are also popular at such places as El Bajito, Los Islotes and Rocas Tintorera. For a unique experience, check out the Conger ell garden at Isla Ballena where these peculiar creatures are seen extending there narrow bodies from the sand floor while feeding. They seem to create a living reed garden swaying rhythmically with the ebb and flow of the tide.

CABO PULMO BEACH RESORT - PEPE'S DIVE CENTER
The Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park is located about 40 miles north of San Jose del Cabo on the eastern cape of Baja. The abundant coral growth on the rocky reefs provides shelter and food for countless colorful reef fishes, many of which are found nowhere else in the world. The marine boundaries are Bahia Las Barracas to the north and Bahia Los Frailes to the south. This nutrient rich water results in a profusion of plankton that forms the base of a vast food web of invertebrates, fishes, birds and mammals making the Sea of Cortez one of the most productive waters in the world.

Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort offers you the chance to stay in a dive resort that isn't a Club Med type but is more authentic Mexico. Single rooms, beachfront casitas and even a house that sleeps 8 make up the mix of available lodging.

VISTA SEA SPORTS - EAST CAPE
Mark and Jennifer Rayor, proprietors of Vista Sea Sport, moved to Buena Vista in 1991 from southern California. The company was founded in 1993. They are both certified PADI Instructors with thousands of hours of underwater experience. All tours depart in the morning and return between noon and 3:30 P.M. depending on dive location. Tours consist of two dives at two different dive sites.
PRICES: Tours range from $110.00 to $140.00 US
RESERVATIONS: 011 52 (624) 114-10031 or by email at Vseasport@aol.com.


TAILHUNTER INTERNATIONAL - LA PAZ
Jonathan Roldan runs a sportfishing and dive service out of La Paz and has over a decade of local knowledge and experience. Jonathan writes a column for the Western Outdoor News and is well known for his take on Baja and how best to enjoy it. If it swims, Jonathan knows where to find it whether on or underwater. Island dives and near shore reef dives are easily arranged.
PHONE: 1 (877) 825-8802 - 1 (626) 333-3355
EMAIL: riplipboy@aol.com


AMIGOS DEL MAR - CABO SAN LUCAS
Amigos del Mar has been operating in Cabo San Lucas for over 18 years, making them one of the most experienced dive operators in Los Cabos. They are a PADI, SSI, NAUI, NASDS Dive Resort Facility offering daily guided natural history, scuba and snorkel tours, a variety of Certification Courses and introductory scuba courses, natural history sunset cruises and - in season - natural history whale watching tours.
PRICES: From $40 US for Single tank dives
PHONE:011 52 (624) 143-0505


BLUE ADVENTURES - CABO SAN LUCAS
Located in the Marina Cabo Plaza condominium building near the fishing charter fleet and the former Hotel Hacienda. They offer several different dive tours, certifications and PADI professionals. Check into their "Web Specials" where you can dive La Anegada, the North Wall and Pelican Rock on a two tank dive for only $75 US with all gear and transport included.
PHONE: From US - 1 (602) 324-9007 or 011 52 (624) 144-4670 – In Cabo 144-4670 or 144-4680



ARTICLE: DEBUNKING MYTHS AND OVERCOMING SCUBA DIVING FEARS

There’s a completely different world underwater! What we see on the water’s surface is a far cry from what scuba divers get to explore in traverse depths. But unfounded fears of scuba diving brought about by myths, hearsay and lack of knowledge get in the way of experiencing the exciting sport. It’s natural to fear something you haven’t tried or do not have first hand knowledge of. The term SCUBA is derived from Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus. Scuba divers need special gears to be able to stay below the water’s surface for extensive lengths of time. The discovery of teeming aquatic life, breathtaking drop-offs and even mysterious shipwrecks are only a few perks of scuba diving. So read on to overcome your fears and enjoy the other wonders of scuba diving!

Myth #1
Sharks will attack me when I go scuba diving.
Myth buster
Whatever Hollywood taught you is definitely an exaggeration. Majority of divers have never even laid eyes on large sharks. When they do, the shark species which they often encounter during scuba dives are typically timid and unwilling to approach, such as sand tigers, nurses, greys, bulls, and rarely, hammerheads. Most species of sharks are not to be feared. The kind that poses some danger is the Great White shark, but they are rare species, which usually reside in selected areas in Northern California or off the south coast of Australia. Most will actually leave you alone if you will do the same for them. As for the shark’s smaller “dangerous” counterparts that are believed to be a threat are actually great subjects for underwater photographers. Stinging marine creatures like sting rays, lionfish and jellyfish can be easily avoided and are not aggressive. An encounter with a moray eel is even a rare treat since they rarely go out of their caves and holes.

Myth #2
Scuba diving will give me “the bends”
Myth buster
Getting a diving certification requires each diver to take the corresponding course for each desired level. Among the many things that you’ll learn is how to prevent getting “bent.” Decompression sickness, better known among divers as “the bends,” is a diving disorder, which can almost entirely be prevented. It is brought on by going too deep and coming up too fast, resulting in bubbles of inert gases (like nitrogen or helium) getting trapped in the organs, blood vessels and tissues. Staying above 60 feet poses no serious risk. But once beyond that depth, a good preventive measure to off-gas nitrogen even further is to follow a dive profile which requires a safety stop of three minutes at 15 feet. Always remember to ascend at a slow pace, while continuously breathing. Keeping within the limits of your dive chart and following what your dive instructor taught you are the best tips to avoid “the bend.”

Myth #3
Scuba diving will cost me an arm an a leg
Myth buster
The rich are not the only people who can enjoy scuba diving. There are ways to go about money issues if you’re really interested in the sport. The most practical thing to do for beginners is to rent the equipment they will need for the actual dive. Professional dive centers have all sorts of gears for rent, catering to the diver’s basic or advanced needs, while varying qualities and different brands come in different prices. Renting will incur a minimal additional cost to the original fee of your diving course but will save you time and money than buying your own equipment. After several dives, you will be able to tell if you’re ready to commit to the sport and invest in your own gear.

Myth #4
Scuba diving is a life-threatening sport
Myth buster
With the growing popularity of scuba diving, divers now have more options to choose from. Today’s contemporary diving programs, development of diving vehicles and resorts, and technologically-advanced equipment are consistently making scuba diving a safer outdoor activity. The chance of acquiring injury is lower for diving that for any other adventure-oriented activities like snow skiing and snowmobiling. If you do things correctly, scuba diving can be an activity you have almost complete control of. Start right -- review your choices, select a reputable diving school, choose an instructor you feel comfortable with, assess what program suits you, and complete the required training before an actual dive. Be a smart diver at all times -- check your gear before going into the water, use your instincts combined with wise judgment, never dive alone, and remember the cardinal rules of diving taught by your instructor

Frederic Madore is the founder of the Scuba Diving Information Center.